Ideal Boiler F1 Fault Code
The Ideal fault code F1 low water pressure Q & A or require an engineer for an emergency boiler repair.
The Ideal Boiler Fault Code F1 Error Common Q & A
Just below, we have a list of common questions relating to the F1 fault code on the Ideal boiler.
- What does the F1 fault code mean on my Ideal boiler?
- What pressure should my Ideal boiler be at?
- Is a boiler with low pressure dangerous?
- Is there anything I can do to fix the F1 fault code on my Ideal boiler on a DIY basis?
- I’ve topped up my boiler’s pressure and it’s now too high, what shall I do?
- I had a power flush and the F1 fault code has shown ever since, what could be the problem?
- My boiler constantly loses pressure and then shows the F1 fault code, what is the problem?
- How can a boiler that loses pressure cause property and boiler damage?
- Is there any way to check for leaks?
- I don’t have any leaks on my central heating system, so what’s the problem?
- My boiler engineer thinks I need a new boiler, why would this be the case?
What does the F1 fault code mean on my Ideal boiler
The Ideal boiler F1 fault code relates to low water pressure in your central heating system.
The pressure in your heating run and boiler comes from the amount of water currently in the system.
If the system isn’t topped up with enough water, the pressure will be too low.
But, systems can lose pressure over time. If they lose too much, they’ll lock out and display a fault code like the F1 code you’re seeing on your display panel.
What pressure should my Ideal boiler be at
Most manufacturers will recommend an operating pressure of 1.3 bar. However, the exact pressure they recommend can be found in your owner’s manual.
You’ll notice on the boiler’s pressure gauge that anything between 1-3 bar is not in the red section of the gauge. So, the boiler should continue to operate when it’s in the 1-3 bar range.
Is a boiler with low pressure dangerous
Typically, we’d not expect a low system pressure fault code like the F1 to lead to a dangerous boiler.
Even when boilers show a high-water pressure, they’re rarely dangerous. But, it’s likely that a high-pressure boiler could cause damage to internal components.
If you’re unsure, it’s best to call a Gas Safe engineer straight away to find and fix the problem.
Is there anything I can do to fix the F1 fault code on my Ideal boiler on a DIY basis
There’s a simple fix for the F1 fault code. But, this is only suitable if the boiler has always had low pressure and displayed the F1 fault code. For instance, if you’ve just moved into the property and the boiler has never worked.
If your boiler loses pressure, you should read the rest of the article before doing the quick fix mentioned below.
The simple way to fix a low-pressure boiler, is to add water via the external filling loop.
This is the braided hose that’s usually located underneath the boiler’s casing. Opening the valve on the filling loop allows water to enter the heating system. You’ll then see the pressure gauge increasing.
The needle will bounce around as water enters and then settles. So, it’s best to open the valve slowly and for short periods of time. Allow the pressure gauge reading to settle before adding more water.
The boiler will then need to be reset.
I’ve topped up my boiler’s pressure and it’s now too high, what shall I do
You don’t want a boiler’s pressure to be above the optimum (1.3 bar). However, many people set their boiler to 1.5 bar and have no problems.
If you’ve set your boilers’ pressure too high, you can release pressure.
If you know where the drain cock for the heating system is, you can drain the system this way.
You’ll need to attach a hose and then route the hose pipe outside. Once it’s connected and routed outside, open the drain cock to the release the water (and therefore pressure).
You’ll need someone to help you. They can check the boiler’s pressure and tell you when to shut the drain cock.
If you don’t know where the heating system’s drain cock is, the other option is to release some of the water from radiators.
You’ll need a radiator bleed key. And don’t forget you’ll need towels to protect the walls and floor, and a container to catch water.
Again, you’ll need to have someone help you by checking the boilers pressure, so you know when to shut the radiator bleed valve.
When you first open the valve it’s likely you’ll hear a hissing noise. This is just air being released. This is then replaced by water.
Shut off the valve when the boiler’s pressure reaches 1.3 bar.
I had a power flush and the F1 fault code has shown ever since, what could be the problem
The theory behind power flushes is a good one. Using chemicals and pressure, a power flush will remove internal heating sludge.
That’s a build-up of rust from radiators and copper pipe. By removing this, it saves your heating system getting blocked up, and can improve the efficiency of radiators.
However, it’s only newer heating systems that can withstand the pressure of a power flush. And the problem here is that it’s rare a new system is going to need a power flush, as heating sludge can take years to build-up.
If you’ve had a power flush on an old heating system and now have F1 fault code displayed, it’s likely the flush has caused a leak.
We’d start by checking soldered copper joints and radiators valves for leaks. Any leak will lead to a loss in boiler pressure.
My boiler constantly loses pressure and then shows the F1 fault code, what is the problem
First, most boilers that lose pressure have a leak. This isn’t necessarily in the boiler. Any leak in the central heating system will cause the pressure gauge to drop.
And that’s why we’d never suggest topping up the boiler with water until the problem is fixed.
What you’ve probably noticed is that when you top up pressure, the pressure then drops quickly.
The lower the pressure becomes, the slower the pressure will decline. That’s because excess pressure forces water out of the leaking component in your heating system.
The problem we find is that people have been constantly topping up their boiler, not realising that water is leaking somewhere. This can lead to property and boiler damage.
How can a boiler that loses pressure cause property and boiler damage
If you can’t see any part of the heating system leaking, the culprit could be hiding in walls, under floorboards or even in the boiler.
Let’s say it’s a leaking copper pipe that goes through a wall or is under floorboards. It could take weeks or even months for that leak to be visible. By the time it is, it will have rotted floorboards and plaster and lead to expensive property repairs.
And the same goes for leaking boilers. The damage here tends to be expensive. For example, if the boiler’s pump is leaking, this water can drip onto electrical components and over time, it will destroy the boiler.
Is there any way to check for leaks
As we mentioned previously, the quicker this is fixed, the less likely it is for property and boiler damage to occur.
We’d recommend calling a heating engineer immediately.
However, there are visual checks you can do to see if your heating system is leaking.
First, start with the boiler. Are there any droplets of water beneath the boiler’s casing?
If there are, there’s a good chance that the heat exchanger has cracked and is leaking, the pump seals are leaking, or there’s a loose connection.
That’s a good place for your engineer to start.
Next, check all radiators, towel rails and pipe work. Are there any signs of moisture?
Even the smallest leak from a radiator valve will cause the pressure on your boiler to drop.
On many occasions, removing the valve, adding PTFE and a new olive will fix the problem.
I don’t have any leaks on my central heating system, so what’s the problem
If you have a boiler that’s losing pressure, it’s likely there’s a leak. Even if you can’t see it, that doesn’t mean it’s not there.
For example, there are tiny components like the pressure release valve and auto air vent. If these are faulty they might not be physically leaking water, but they may be releasing pressure when they shouldn’t.
If they are, that’s going to reduce the pressure on the boiler’s pressure gauge.
But, don’t completely discount the fact that the boiler’s pressure gauge might be faulty. This is rare, and it’s only likely to be the case if the boiler has always shown the F1 fault code and the needle on the pressure gauge doesn’t move up or down.
My boiler engineer thinks I need a new boiler, why would this be the case
If you manage to catch leaks that are internal (i.e. in the boiler) early enough, it’s unlikely a boiler is going to need to be replaced.
However, things like leaking heating pumps and cracked heat exchangers are usually the issues that lead to the replacement being more favourable than a repair.
First up, there’s the cost to fix the broken component. Typically, we’d expect to pay £250+ for a new heating pump, but up to £500 for a heat exchanger.
Secondly, we’ve then got to consider the damage done to other components in the boiler. If the water damage has caused items like the PCB to malfunction, the overall cost of repair can quickly spiral out of control.
So, ask what parts are damaged and why a replacement is needed. If the case is that repairs are going to cost £800-1000, it’s much wiser to spend that money on a new boiler, not an unreliable old one.
Other Ideal boiler issues
For more boiler issues regarding the Idea Boiler then please visit the Ideal Boiler Problems And Cures page.